Page 58 - COPA_July2023

TRAVELOGUE
and snow a day after we arrived. I filed a VFR plan for departure, leaving as soon as possible.
Departing, we flew a low approach over some icebergs right after wheels up and flew like that for about 30 minutes. It was the first time I had flown so close to an iceberg and it was amazing. Along the way, just south of Thule U.S. AFB, my MFD moving map went blank. I wasn’t sure at the time if it was because of the location or a technical issue but Forelight was a perfect backup as well as the Garmins, so I ignored it and flew on.
As we approached the Thule area (Qaanaaq is located north of it), it was completely closed in cloud cover. Instead of playing with terrain and ice again, we opted to continue over water and around to Qaanaaq, which was open and in VFR. As we approached and descended, the long, majestic Herbert Island came into view and it was the perfect welcome mat for our arrival. I will never forget that scene as long as I live.
Qaanaaq is north across from Herbert Island and has a dirt/gravel runway that is packed pretty firm. Our approach
and landing there were perfect and uneventful. You have to set up for a left or right base and if you want to carry out a downwind entry you must keep it wide from the field, as turning in gets you close to the mountain and ice cap if you’re not careful.
After 3,000 NM, seven legs, a big water crossing and some terrain avoidance, we finally landed in Qaanaaq, Greenland. The top of the world! I was euphoric in every way possible and not just because the three barrels of fuel I bought, a year before, were sitting right there!
Lessons Learned: Obviously having the compass act a little crazy that far north wasn’t a surprise, but having my MFD map disappear was. There was no issue though as the dual Garmins had my position and terrain was clear. Also, Foreflight was all that was really needed after that with a good crosscheck to the Garmins.
10 Days in the North
The only significant thing I had to deal with while in Qaanaaq before we departed for the swim in the Nares Strait was a windstorm with 70 knots
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JULY 2023 COPA Pilot
Justin swimming the Nares Strait – 11 miles over 7.5 hours in 34˚F water.
sustained winds. I had to double up the tie downs so the SR22 wouldn’t take off sitting on the ramp.
After the storm passed, we ventured by boat to the Nares Strait where we were far from Qaanaaq and completely alone. The ice that flowed from the Arctic Ocean into the strait never let up so we opted to do the swim from the nearest point in Nares Strait instead of Canada. I hopped into the sea kayak and Justin hopped in the water where he swam 11 miles over 7.5 hours in 34˚F water while avoiding crushing sea ice flow all the way back to Greenland.
After the swim and before we headed back, I spent a day punching holes in Greenland’s sky. First I had to pull out one of the 50-gallon barrels we had sent up a year before and roll it over to the plane. My first thought was, “Is this fuel still good?” I used the hand pump I brought to top it off. After starting the plane, I let it run for a while and ran it up a bit longer than usual just to get that old fuel into the system. At departure, I climbed northwest over the Greenland ice sheet with the Nares Strait as my destination. I wanted to see it from the air.
This was the first flight where I was able to really see the Greenland ice sheet. As I climbed up on departure the full ice sheet came into view and it was over- whelming. The size of it was unimagi- nable and blinding. As I approached Nares Strait, I dropped down low and flew through the Foulk Fjord. I continued in and around fjords that were fed by the sheet and low passes over icebergs. It was the best day of flying I had ever experienced.
Day 16: Aug. 22
Return Leg 1: BGQQ:BGJN (583 NM) I planned five legs for the return, with the